Saturday, October 22, 2011

The Beginning Of The End

Our shopping trip on Thursday was fun. Ryan bought a cute souvenir that will make its debut at the birthday party next weekend. On the game drive that evening we saw elephants and rhinos giving themselves mud baths. Very entertaining to watch! That night we almost didn't get to eat dinner because we couldn't find it. They had moved from the regular dining room into the "boma" -- an outdoor thatched hut area with a big bonfire in the middle. Fun to eat outside.

Our last day at the safari turned out to be a beautiful day, finally! We got to enjoy the sun during the day and finally see the stars at night. In the first few minutes of our morning drive we saw 15 giraffes all gathered together enjoying some breakfast of leaves on top of one of the hills. We've seen many giraffes throughout the last week but never that many gathered together. It was very neat, I think they actually gathered there to say goodbye to us.

Our final game drive that evening was special. We saw the male cheetahs (named Tiger and Woods) and then went to a beautiful lookout over the reserve to watch the sunset. We had some wine, cheese and samosas, took a lot of photos and enjoyed watching the stars come out. A great ending to our safari.

Friday we got packed up and hit the road, swinging through Durban to pick up a lost article of clothing and then headed north to Johannesburg. In total, 9.5 hours of driving! And we found the iPod hookup in the car so Ryan had some tunes to jam to while driving up the mountains rather than Britney Spears and Barry White. Beautiful scenery again, the first half of the drive has lush, green mountains and valleys (google Van Reenen Pass to see pics), the second half of the trip looked more like the American West, dry prairies and tumbleweeds.

We stayed in a cute guest house in the nice suburb of Sandton. Johannesburg is supposed to be a tough city, but we couldn't tell last night! We ate dinner at the Nelson Mandela Square, a very fancy boutique and restaurant area.

We have no plans for today...we fly out at 8:20 pm tonight (that's 1:20 pm in Wisconsin), get into Atlanta at 6 am and Madison around 10 am.

See you all soon!

-- Ryan and Holly

Holly and her elephant friends

Holly and her elephant friends

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Safari Update

(We wrote this blog post yesterday morning but are just getting a chance to post it now, Thursday morning. Sorry -- it's another long one!!)

It is Wednesday morning in South Africa and we have a wine buzz. Let's blog!

On Monday we did two game drives here on Zulu Nyala. In our downtime between drives, we chilled in the tent and watched "My Best Friend's Wedding, " only the greatest movie of all time! Says holly. For dinner that night, they were serving impala -- fresh from the reserve! Ryan says it tasted a lot like beef stew but a little more gamey, not bad overall. Holly says pass the chicken!

On Tuesday we decided to do a day trip to St. Lucia. It is a small coastal town known for its estuary full of crocodiles and hippos. In fact, on the St. Lucia river, there are 1200 crocs and 800 hippos! But. Our river boat guide had trouble finding more than 6 crocs and 12 hippos. Our two hour boat ride could have been better spent napping, says Holly. The trip wasn't a total loss. We had a fun lunch at their boating and fishing club on the water and watched an intense televised game of cricket between Bangladesh and West Indies. You'll never guess it, but Bangladesh won. We couldn't believe it either! We finished our time there with a bit of shopping; Holly is much better at bartering than Ryan. (says Holly. But it's true!) On our way out of town we got our closest peek at monkeys, 4 of them sitting on the edge of the road posing as we took pics.

Back at the reserve, we met up with our group for an afternoon game drive. We got to see the female cheetah and her 4 cubs up close, but we are still on the hunt for the elusive Leopard, the only one of the Big 5 we haven't seen.

Our group of 9 and our guide had dinner together at the game lodge that's located inside the reserve. (Our tent and the hotel are located about a 5 min drive from the reserve.) The lodge is a bit fancier than our restaurant back in the village and it was nice to learn more about our guide, James.

Last night we finally experienced it --- Rain in Africa!! After 4 straight days of cloudy skies, they opened up and let it rip around 2 am. Have you ever slept in a tent during a thunderstorm? There is no sleeping involved! Also, the wind whips our roof around very very loudly, it is impossible to sleep through. Ryan has recorded the noise in a video, it is sure to be a YouTube hit.

Today our group is going shopping and having lunch in a nearby village, so we didn't go on the morning game drive hence the free time to drink some wine.

To answer your questions...

Most surprising thing about the trip thus far:
Holly: the radio songs...guess I was expecting more traditional African music, not so much American influence. Also the weather here on the safari..it has been a lot cooler than I thought (and I left my jacket in Durban but anytime I bring it up Ryan says "hakuna matata!")
Ryan: The wide range of landscapes throughout the country. We started off with mountains going into the ocean in Cape Town to fields of grapevines among the mountains in Franschhoek to farm fields on our way to Hermanus to the rocky coast of Hermanus and watching whales from the shore to the pine forests of Knysna to the coastal urban city of Durban and their endless beaches and now being in the bush with your more traditional looking safari landscape.
Holly: Ryan's answer was way better, i'll second what he says.

Something we're glad we researched before coming:
Everything! We spent a lot of time reading and planning before this trip and have been very glad that we did. Also its been very nice having our own car.
Holly also adds that she's glad Ryan did the research on driving/passing on the shoulder.

Down time at the safari?
Not really, each day so far has been different so our afternoon "free time" is hit or miss. Yesterday we had no free time during the day, the day before we had about 3 hours.

How close do we get to the animals?
The elephants have gotten within 6 feet of the vehicle. Our guide is very good at maintaining a safe distance from them. Other animals (Nyala, zebra, impala, buffalo, giraffe) are often closer, especially if they're in the roadway. At Phinda watching the lions, we parked about 15 feet away from them and they moved around us, sometimes coming closer.

Mock-charging Elephants
The elephants mock charge is their way of saying "One of us has to go. Either you move, or we'll fight over who moves." They don't want to fight if they don't have to but they're annoyed someone has entered "their" space.

Unique foods we've tried
Springbok balls - a common deer-like animal, deep fried in bite-sized balls
Sticky bun ice cream- amazing, we are going to start manufacturing this
"Chicken mayo" is a popular sandwich option - it's like a chicken salad, but creamier and just those two ingredients
Raw oyster in Knysna, supposedly the best in the whole world - not sure I agree says Holly
Homemade pie roadside stands - we haven't stopped at any yet, but it took awhile to realize they're not talking about apples and cherries. Meat pies seem to be a pretty traditional food, you can buy them in gas stations like you can buy slices of pizza and hot dogs in America
The food at the reserve is all buffet style with a lot of meat, sides and salad options. Nothing too exotic except for the impala the other night.
For the most part, we've been eating a lot of seafood when we're in coastal towns and non-African food when we're not -- like Thai, sushi, pizza, sandwiches. It is easier to find/more abundant than traditional foods.

Thanks for your questions! Keep 'em coming!

Holly and Ryan

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Ryan's Surfing Safari

A few shots I took on my phone of Ryan's surfing lesson...more to come once we download the pics from our cameras!

Elephants! And Tigers!

From our Sunday game drives!

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Lions and rhinos and tongue jerky, oh my!

We go on two game drives each day, at 8 am and 4 pm. The morning one usually lasts 3.5-4 hours, the afternoon one is shorter, 2.5-3 hours. It gets dark around 6 pm so after that time the guide will use a spotlight.

We ride in a truck... James, our guide, drives up front and the truck bed has been converted into 9 stadium seats. The sides are open air but the top is covered. We have two retired couples in our group and one younger couple and their 4th grade son. (Ryan and I are among the youngest people here.

On our first morning drive, we saw many of the same animals we saw the night before. James told us interesting facts about all the animals and stories about his own life growing up in "the bush." Like how as a kid, he and his friends would hunt monkeys so they could eat their brains -- the Zulu people believed eating monkey brains makes you clever!

That morning we also saw the adult female cheetah and her 4 cubs. They were taking a break after eating some impala that she had caught that morning. The cubs are about 5 months old and so cute! We also found the three elephants on the reserve and I don't think they were very happy about it. One of the adult females repeatedly "mock charged" our vehicle...great photo opportunity even if it was a little scary!

That afternoon about 15 people from our reserve decided to take the afternoon drive at a neighboring reserve, Phinda. Phinda is a lot bigger than our reserve (how much bigger depends on who you ask...I thought the guide said 20 times bigger than our reserve, Ryan thought he said 100 times bigger!). Because it is so much larger, it has all of the Big 5. The Big 5 are elephants, leopards, rhinos, buffalo and lions (Zulu Nyala has all but lions). The Big 5 are considered to be the five most dangerous animals to be hunted on foot, a term dating back to long ago when these animals were hunted.

Phinda is a little different from our reserve. The vehicles are open air and accompanying the guide is a spotter who sits on the front of the vehicle. Our spotter, whose name I never got, was incredible. Our guide, JP, was also very good, a 22 year old kid who had just graduated from university in December and was taking some time to be a ranger before starting his career in accounting.

They were very amped up to find us some lions, so we headed to the mountains where they had saw a pride earlier in the day. On our way there, we almost ran into an elephant! A huge male elephant was hanging out in the road when we came around the corner. He was very startled by us and another car on the road, so did a couple mock charges towards us. Another good photo op....but still pretty scary.

We came across a small pride of lions near a watering hole....two lionesses and 4 cubs. They were pretty inactive so we continued up the mountain. On our way, our spotter spotted a pride from literally a mile away! They were just white specks on the mountain. This pride had 2 lionesses, 4 sub-adults and 3 cubs. The cubs were adorable, playing with each other and their mama. We also watched two failed hunting attempts by a couple of the sub-adults. About 14 months old, those lions are still honing their hunting skills.

After watching the pride for awhile, we headed back down the mountain to find the black rhino. An endangered species, there are less than 2000 of these rhinos in the world. Poachers also love them because of their horns, which can bring in about $5000 on the black market. (Our reserve has white rhino, but no black.) We found a black rhino and two of her babies, a 3month old and 3 years old, headed to a watering hole. Black rhinos are much more vicious than white rhinos so we kept our distance. They were fun to watch and listen to.

By that time, it was getting dark so we met up with one of the other groups for a "sundowner" in the bush. Our guides set up a mini bar and pulled out some snacks -- corn nuts, dried mango and beef tongue jerky. This is when I embarrass myself in South Africa. I know, I'm surprised it took this long too.

I had heard one of the guides saying the jerky was "tongue" from beef. So I wouldn't go near it...tongue? No way! One of the other guests asked if the jerky was beef or tongue, I shouted both! It's beef tongue! And then the guides started laughing at me. The Afrikaans word for jerky is biltong, and when spoken, the "bil" is very silent, leading some of us (or just me) to believe it is tongue jerky.

Anyway, after a few drinks we packed up and headed back to the Phinda lodge. It was very dark by this point so the spotter was using a spotlight and spotted a hippo out and about. It is very rare to see a hippo out of the water, so we felt very lucky.

Going to Phinda cost a few extra dollars, but I think we were all thrilled with the trip. Fun guides, some new scenery and incredible animals!

Finally, we would love to answer any of the questions you may have about Africa, the reserve, or what life is like here. So please ask 'em if you've got 'em! (Holly DR, we'll get to your questions in the next post!!)

Thank you to anyone who is still reading this ridiculously long post. I promise my next posts will be short and sweet!